Five Lakes Loop: A Classic Hike on Bolivia’s Altiplano

My most recent visit to Bolivia’s Altiplano was in 2017. The raison d’etre of that journey was a 600 km/373 mile traverse of the region, which featured multi-colored lakes, the world’s largest salt flat, and a memorable finish on top of Volcan Licancabur (5,920 m/19,423 ft). Missing from the associated trip report was a beautiful short hike that immediately preceded the traverse – a border-straddling overnighter I called the Five Lakes Loop (Note: Two of the five bodies of water are located on the Chilean side of the border). The article below includes photos, basic trekking notes, a gear list, and logistical and GPS information for the route.

At a Glance

Distance:  47 km (29 mi)

Average Duration:  10 hours to two days

Difficulty Level:  Moderate. Around 40% of the route is off-trail; however, navigation/route-finding is fairly simple in the wide-open, treeless landscape.

Season: June to September (I hiked in early September)

Total Elevation Gain: 946 m (3,104 ft)

Elevation Range: 4,230 m (13,879 ft) to 5,130 m (16,831 ft)

Start/Finish:  Sajama Village, Bolivia

Highlights

• The eponymous Five Lakes. If I had to pick one, it would be the almost-perfectly round Inca Ingenio. 
• Stoic llamas and speedy vicunas.
• Flamingos on Laguna Huayna Kota
• Soaking in the full moon rising alongside the mighty Nevado Sajama (6,542 m/21,463 ft), Bolivia’s highest peak. 

Planning Information:

• Getting There & Away: From the capital of La Paz, you can take a private car or a combo of buses to reach the village of Sajama.  I went with the latter option. The journey took around six hours, with a change of buses (from big to mini) in the town of Oruro.

• Permits & Fees: No, on both counts.

• GPS Info: GaiaGPS

• Online Information: For a general overview of Sajama National Park, see VisitSouthAmerica.co and National-Parks.org. On the AllTrails website (Lagunas de Sajama), you can find an abbreviated version of the featured hike (32.7 km/20.3 mi), which includes three of the five lakes (along with photos and trail descriptions). Apart from fewer lakes and less distance, the biggest difference between the AllTrails hike and the Five Lakes Loop is that the former is all on trail, while the latter is cross-country between Laguna Chiar Kkota and Laguna Huayna Kota (around 20 km/12.4 mi).

Accommodation:

• Camping options are plentiful throughout the hike. That said, the terrain is completely exposed, and when it’s blowier than an AYCE bean buffet, you’ll want to be on the lookout for natural windbreaks before bedding down for the night.

• Before and after the hike, I stayed at the Hostal Sajama. I found the cabins to be comfortable, and management let me store extra luggage and supplies while I was trekking.

Trail Notes:

• On the initial stretch out of town, follow 4WD roads until you reach a signed junction at Estancia Junthum. From there, it’s around three kilometers to the geysers.

• Leaving the geothermal area, the trail climbs steadily up to Paso de Casiri (15,941 ft), which straddles the border between Bolivia and Chile. From here, you’ll be treated to views of the first of the five lakes, Laguna Casiri Macho.

• Soon after departing Casiri Macho, skirt along the southeastern side of the smaller Laguna Sora Pata, which is the second of the lakes on the Chilean side of the border.

• From there, climb up to a windswept moonscape, where you’ll be afforded striking views toward Laguna Chiar Khota.

• It was at this point that the Five Lakes Loop departed from the Lagunas de Sajama route on AllTrails (which skirts the southern side of the lake en route to Sajama Village).

• From the western shores of Chiar Kkota, I headed NNE and then NE over a couple of rock-strewn saddles before descending to the jaw-dropping Laguna Inca Ingenio.

• Leaving the frigid waters of Inca Ingenio, I continued NE through a narrow, boulder-strewn valley sandwiched between two sandy-sloped peaks.

• Around three kilometers (2 mi) after leaving the lake, the sun had said its goodbyes and the temps were dropping fast. It was time to look for a place to bed down – preferably with a grandstand view of Sajama National Park’s namesake mountain.

• The following morning, I awoke semi-early and descended Quebrada Condoriri to reach the shallow, flamingo-frequented lake of Huayna Khota.

• The final stretch of the Five Lakes Loop followed a dirt road back to the village of Sajama. Along the way, I stopped for a soak at the soothing hot springs of Doña Ines.

• Upon arrival at the Hostal Sajama, I enjoyed a long lunch before heading down to the village plaza and football ground to take in a late afternoon game. A great ending to a fantastic short hike.

Related Posts

• Gear List: Altiplano Traverse 
• The Altiplano Traverse (Stage 1): Salt Flats, Volcanoes, and Quinoa
• The Altiplano Traverse (Stage 2): Coloured Lakes, Geothermal Fields, and a Towering Finale
• Trip Report: Cordillera Real Traverse