The Ausangate Circuit is a classic Andean trek that features glaciers, hot springs, turquoise lakes, and traverses four high altitude passes. Despite the fact that it boasts some of the finest mountain scenery in Peru, it receives only a fraction of the foot traffic seen on the region’s more famous hikes, the Inca Trail and Salkantay Trek. I hiked the Ausangate Circuit with Ryan “Dirtmonger” Sylva in early August 2017.
Ryan “Dirtmonger/DM” Sylva approaching Campo Pass (5068m).
At a Glance
Distance: 70 km (43.5 miles) – Not including side trips.
Avg. Time: 5 days.
- That is the standard amount of time taken by guided groups. If you are fit, acclimatized and carrying a light pack, there are no big issues with doing the hike in three or four days.
Start & Finish: Tinqui
- As of 2017, virtually all organized groups start at Upis, which is now accessible by dirt road and cuts off around 12 km from the overall distance. We decided to begin our hike at the traditional trailhead of Tinqui, and hiked from there to Upis via a combination of trail, dirt roads and cross-country.
Overview map of the circuit.
Highest Point: Palomani Pass 5165 m (16,946 ft)
Lowest Point: Tinqui 3800 m (12, 467 ft)
Season: Possible all year, though the dry season between May and October is ideal. During this period nights can be chilly (-5°C is common), but days are generally clear.
Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging. For the most part, the climbs are fairly gradual, and the trail is easy to follow. That said, virtually all of this trek is above 4500 m (14,764 ft). This is one hike for which you will want to be well and truly acclimatized beforehand (see below).
Yama Mountain Gear Cirriform & MLD SoloMid | Campsite Day 1 | Not too far from Laguna Jatan Pucacocha.
Getting There & Away:
- Cusco to Tinqui – There are daily buses with Transportes Siwar (Av. Tito Condemayta 1613 – Situated behind the Coliseo Cerrado) from Cusco to Tinqui. They leave early morning, take around three hours, and the cost is only 9 Peruvian Soles (around US$3) as of August 2017. The bus will drop you off on the Tinqui plaza, from where you can start your hike. To return to Cusco, your best chance of getting a direct bus is by arriving in Tinqui by 730 / 8 am.
Llamas, hikers and ominous-looking clouds.
Guidebook / Maps / General Information:
- Guidebooks: The most recent option is Alexander Stewart’s, The Inca Trail (2013), which contains trekking notes and a basic map for the Ausangate Circuit (as well as other hikes in the region). I have not seen this book in person, but for what it’s worth, the reviews on Amazon seem positive. Older titles that include the Ausangate include: Lonely Planet, Trekking in Peru (2008) and Lonely Planet, Trekking in the Central Andes (2003).
- Topo Maps: If you are looking for something a little more detailed, you can pick up the IGN 1:100,000 Ocongate (sheet 28-t) online at Omnimap.com (very pricey). Alternatively, you might be able to find a copy at the South American Explorer’s Club in Cusco.
- GPS: See AllTrails or Wikiloc.com for GPS info for the complete circuit.
- Useful Websites: Besthike.com contains an overview of the circuit, links to multiple trip reports, and lots of helpful tips if you prefer to go with a trekking agency.
A good looking llama by any criteria | Laguna Caycocha.
- Permits & Fees: No permits are needed to hike the Ausangate Circuit, though hikers do need to pay a 10 sole (US$3) fee at a hole-in-the-wall kiosk on the edge of Tinqui. Make sure they give you a receipt/ticket.
- Food: There are a couple of basic stores in Tinqui, but you are better off bringing all supplies from Cusco. Once you leave Tinqui, there is nowhere to purchase supplies along the route.
- Water: There is plenty of water available throughout the route, however, due to the prevalence of grazing animals (Ausangate is in the running for being the Llama capital of Peru) it is recommended that all water should be treated.
DM drinking in the views on top of Arapa Pass (4757m)
- Guided Vs Independent: More than 95% of hikers that tackle the Ausangate Circuit do so as part of a guided group. However, if you have the necessary gear – due to the higher elevations it is colder than the Inca and Salkantay hikes – a reasonable amount of backpacking experience, and are well acclimatized (see below) there are no issues with doing the hike independently. If you would prefer to do a guided trip, as of 2017, you will be looking at around US$600 to $800. See Besthike.com for a list of recommended trekking agencies.
- Acclimatization: Whichever direction you choose to do the circuit, chances are you will be camping at over 4500m on the first night of the trip. You will subsequently remain over this altitude for all but the final kilometres back to Tinqui. In order to avoid possible issues with AMS (Accute Mountain Sickness), you need to be well acclimatized before starting the trek. Tip: In addition to a few days spent wandering around the regional hub of Cusco (3400m), try to do at least one of the area’s slightly lower altitude treks such as the Inca Trail, Salkantay Trek or Lares Trek. All of these hikes include passes over 4000m. For more information, see Tips for High Altitude Hiking.
Yours truly with the MLD Prophet at Campo Pass (5068m).
Trekking Notes:
- Terrain: With four high passes ranging between 4757m and 5165m, the Ausangate circuit is a topographical roller coaster. That said, with the exception of a few short stretches (the initial part of the climb to Campo Pass comes to mind), the gradient is rarely steep.
- Camping: In between the passes can be found plenty of great camping areas on the wide valley floors.
- Fauna: In addition to the llamas mentioned above, hikers can also spot alpacas, vicunas, black-winged Andean geese, and if you are lucky, the incredible Andean condor. When taking a break on or near rocky slopes, it’s a good idea to mind your food, as there are plenty of opportunistic viscachas (chinchillas) lying in wait for unsuspecting trekkers.
- Hot Springs: There are two hot springs along the route, situated near the start and finish of the walk. Going in a counter-clockwise direction, the first is twenty minutes past the tiny village of Upis. The second can be found at Calachaca, from where it is an easy three-hour descent back to Tinqui.
- Side Trip to Rainbow Mountain: It is possible to extend the hike by a couple of days with a side trip to one of the region’s most popular tourist destinations, the multi-coloured Rainbow Mountain. For details, see Trave2Walk – Ausangate & the Rainbow Mountains.
Oversleeping on the circuit with Nevado Ausangate (6372 m) looming in the background.
Final Thoughts:
The Ausangate Circuit encapsulates a lot of what I love about hiking in the Andes. Jagged snow-capped peaks, sweeping valleys, gorgeous lakes, and the opportunity to observe the shepherding culture up close and personal. Throw in some soothing hot springs and the fact that the trail remains relatively uncrowded, and I’d have to say that this is one of my favourite treks in South America.
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If you have done the Huayhuash Circuit – how would you compare the two? Great write up by the way…
Hi Andy,
Yes, I have done the Huayhuash circuit (https://www.thehikinglife.com/2014/10/cordillera-huayhuash-circuit-peru-2014/). The Ausangate is in the same ballpark in regards to scenery (with maybe a slight edge to the Huayhuash), but it is significantly shorter and there are not as many other hikers. Altitude-wise they are similar, both have hot springs, and both are situated within a few hours of their respective regional hubs.
Cheers,
Cam
Thanks – I just saw that I had already commented on your Huayhuash thread… appreciate all the info… 🙂
Cheers!
No worries. Thanks for following the site!
Cheers,
Cam
Hi Cam. About 5 very experienced Eagle Scouts want to do this after a few days in Cusco. We are going to go solo without a guide or outfitter group, we have all the right gear. Is this Ausangate Circuit well marked? Also, we don’t have the funds to pay for permits for the Inca trail, is there any long thru hike from the Cusco area that will bring us right to or very close to Machu Picchu itself? Thanks for your time
Hi Kip,
Thank you for the message. In answer to your questions: 1. The Ausangate Circuit is not well marked; 2. You may want to consider the Salkantay Trek (https://www.thehikinglife.com/2017/10/salkantay-trek-independent-hikers-guide/).
Cheers,
Cam
Doing it back in 2015 I was attacked by dogs on day 2 – it is a good idea to have some whistle or something to scare them. I was approached about a kilometer and that was very slow – I even got slightly bitten when turned not fast enough to make an eye contact.
I love long hikes and have done a few in the USA but never considered going to SA. But your posts have changed that. Making plans for an extended trip to Peru. Thank you!!
This looks like an awesome trip! Would love to try this route, but have not backpacked in SA before-Can you get around easily enough without speaking Spanish?
It is possible, but I’d definitely recommend trying to pick up at least some basic words and phrases. In addition to making things easier on the logistical side of things, locals will appreciate your efforts.
Cheers,
Cam
An excellent guide to a very interesting trail.
Hello Cam, Ive been reading your articles since last year and have become a huge fan of you, thanks for so great info . I wonder if you could share with us your acclimatization for the ausangate: how many days did you stay in Cusco just after arriving and which trail did you do before it?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Danilo,
Thanks for the message and support. Before the Ausangate, my friend and I spent a few days in Cusco the area, walking around town and exploring some of the villages and archeological sites. We then hiked the Salkantay Trek which went over a 4600 m plus pass. By the time we started the Ausangate, we were well and truly acclimatized and had no issues.
Cheers,
Cam
Hi Cam,
Thanks so much for sharing your adventures, it’s inspiring and very useful!
I’m thinking of doing this hike in September. I have a three season tent and I wonder whether I should upgrade to a four season one (you mentioned -5 degrees nights). I’ve got a good minus 10 sleeping bag but it might not cut it.
I’m traveling on a tight budget so I’d rather not upgrade but I don’t want to freeze either 🙂
What do you think?
Thanks
Thanks for the kind words. If your bag is semi-accurately rated, it sounds like you’ll be fine with what you have. If it’s colder than expected, just wear all of your clothes underneath.
Best of luck.
Cheers,
Cam
Hi Cam
I see they are taking groups up to Rainbow Mountain now😱…. saw pics of stalls set up also
So where are they accessing this driveable route in…. ?obviously day tours of some sort from Cusco
How far off the Ausangate trail is it to get to Rainbow Mountain? Should I factor in an extra night and food?
Cheers
Catherine
UK
Hi Catherine,
As I took public transport to Tinqui and walked from there, I’m not sure where the access road to Rainbow mountain approaches from.
In regards to getting there from the Ausangate circuit, see the informative article from Travel2Walk.com – I included the link in my post after “Side trip to Rainbow Mountain.”
Yes, you will need to take an extra day of food.
Cheers,
Cam
Hi Cam!
It looks so amazing! I just finished the Huayhuash trek, astonishing too.
I am in Cusco now and really want to do the Ausengate trek. Only thing I am worried about is the fact that I am a woman hiking alone. At Huayhuash this was not an option because of the chance of getting raped or robbed etc…(Kid you not).
Do you know if it is safe for a woman to hike Ausengate alone?
Cheers,
Amber
Hi Amber,
That’s a tough one. My friend and I had no issues in 2017, but I couldn’t say in regards to a solo female. What I can tell you is that there are far fewer hikers, no fees along the way, and all the locals we encountered were friendly.
Cheers,
Cam
Hello Cam,
thanks for sharing your guides, it’s been helpful for people like us who prefer to trek independently and don’t want to (or can’t) blow up hundreds of dollars for guides.
We’re thinking of doing this trek after Salkantay in late Nov/early Dec this year, my question is if there is any point during this trek to refill food supplies or get a meal, or if we definitely need to carry food for the whole trek with us.
Thanks!
Jiri
Hi Jiri
I appreciate the kind words.
As for your question, to the best of my knowledge there are no places to resupply on the Ausangate Circuit. You will need to carry your own food for the whole trek.
All the best on your hikes.
Cheers,
Cam
Hi
Some friends and I are thinking about doing the trek without going through one of the companies but we’re wondering if it was possible to just contract with an individual guide. We want to carry all our own gear and do it ourselves but we were worried about getting lost. We are all fairly experienced back-packers but some of us have not trekked at altitude.
It may be possible to organise a non-affiliated guide in Tinqui (the trail’s starting/finishing point), however, I have no information in regards to recommendations.
Hey,
I just did it 2 weeks ago. Did the loop from Pacchanta in three days (see all trail recording, around 50km). I had a guide and a horseman, so not carrying the tent but our team was local from Pacchanta so that was awesome to learn a lot of the local life. You can get a guide in Pacchanta. I would recommend any of them if interested (I have their personal contact info). Regarding getting lost, the trail is pretty clear so if you have a good map I don’t think that will be a problem. For the altitude. If you spend some time up beforehand that should not be a major problem. I just got a little headache at the end of the first day, but was coming from Cusco. I’d recommend spending one night before the start at the trailhead.
Great write up. Looking at travelling to Peru but my only options are January and February – wet season. Would you advise against trekking these routes at that time of year? I am experienced trekker with all necessary equipment, when googling I can only find guided tours etc.
Thanks!
Hi Jack,
Thanks for the kind words. Depending on your experience, Jan/Feb is possible, but as you said, you are likely to experience quite a lot of rain/snow. It’s also worth noting that overall the elevations on the Ausangate Circuit tend to be a bit higher than some of the regions more popular treks.
Cheers,
Cam
Hi Cam, great post! Would love your input! Thinking of doing this trek between Oct-Nov. We started backpacking over the pandemic. My husb and I have done Utah death hollow, Picos de europa ruta anillos and tour du mont blanc, all self guided/using own equipment. Although we are equipped and have some experience, a couple of friends might join us who don’t. I am a bit apprehensive about doing it without a guide because of them and the altitude, but would not want it to be a fully equipped expedition as it might take away from the experience. Any suggestions on how we should do it? We all speak fluent Spanish and are fairly fit trailrunners. I appreciate your feedback 😉
Hi Delina,
Thanks for the message. I understand your apprehension regarding taking your friends along; both from an enjoyment, as well as a health and safety perspective. If you do decide to go for it, the main thing I’d advise is that they are well and truly acclimatized before setting out (see post for more details). If they tick this box, along with being equipped with the appropriate gear and a high level of fitness, hopefully, it should all turn out Ok. Good luck and have a great trip!
Cam
Thanks for the info 🙂 We will embark in OCT. Decided to go self guided with another couple already equipped. Not too experienced but adventurous and fit. Let’s see how it goes…Looking forward to the experience!
Best
Delina
Thanks for the beta Cam! Would you suggest going CCW or CW if this trek was in someone’s cards once in their lifetime?
Also, I see you say to be in Tinqui by 7:30-8a. Do you happen to recall a general bus schedule back to Cusco? Was it just 1 company running shuttles or was there a variety?
Were there any other side routes you’d suggest outside of Rainbow Mountain as well? I’m seeing a couple of out-back’s but struggling to locate much info. Cheers,
Eric
Hi Eric,
Thanks for the message. Regarding your questions:
1. Direction – I don’t think it makes much difference. The important thing is to be well-acclimatized before beginning the hike, irrespective of which way you go.
2. Bus schedules can change pretty regularly. Your best bet is to check when you get there. I can’t remember if there was more than one company doing the route.
3. Side Trips – The one to Rainbow Mountain is the principal one, but I’m sure you could find others that would be worth your time.
Best Regards,
Cam
Hi, Cam! My friend and I are going to Peru for the first time and have 2 weeks. We want to see Machu Pichu, but we are also planning a trek. Would you suggest Huayhuash or Ausangate? I like that Ausangate is in/near Cusco, but dont want to miss Huayhuash if its “better.” Thanks for any recommendations!
Hey Nikki,
Thanks for the message. Firstly, if you have the time, try to do both! If you have to choose, I can’t say definitively that one is better than the other. Huayhuash has the edge on the scenery front, but as you alluded to, Ausangate is shorter, closer to Cusco, and may be better suited to your itinerary needs. What can I say, they’re both great choices!
Cheers,
Cam
Hi, thank you for the info on this post=) I’m going to hike Ausagante this June but may I ask, for water, how much liters you pack at the beginning of your day? I’m pretty new to multi-day hiking. Are water sources very easy and frequent? Is there a day there’s less sources on the way? I was thinking of using my a 2L water bladder with a Nalgene. Maybe that’s even too much capacity… I keep being told I have to drink with altitude!
Thank you
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for the message. Water isn’t an issue on the Ausangate, though you may want to treat any H2O you take from grazing areas. A 3 to 4 liter capacity is fine for most folks doing the hike. Best of luck!
Cheers,
Cam
2024 fee update for individuals.
20 soles for the circuit. -checked at start and finish.
15 soles for land toll (Laguna Ausangatecocha)
20 soles for land toll over pass toward Rainbow Mtn.) Anantapata lodge
10 soles for Red Valley (Rainbow Mt)
Hi Cam!
Again, thank you for all the great info!
One question re Asuangate circuit; do you think it would be manageable to complete in two days if one was able to start relatively early on day one? I’m coming off the back of Cachora – Choquequirao – Machu Picchu which included (at least the brutal way I did it) 3000m elevation gain on day 2, 2800m and 40kms on day 3 and another 40+km day in day 4. So fitness and acclimation should be ok, but logistically does it sound feasible?
I would happily dedicate another day by that would mean sacrificing Colca Canyon or Huayhuash which I’m reticent to do!
Any advice greatly appreciated!
Yes, it would be possible. All the best!